Project 600+ Started

Jonny Gav wrote:: I am honestly shocked Subaru are turning a blind eye to this issue, and as Andy says I am going to contact Subaru about it.

Going to have a good look at it at work.

Its a work of art (not), I think paper is thicker than the metal used on it.

is there any pic's of the offending item?!?! i'd like to have a look study

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Posts : 2072 Join date : 2010-03-14

The dirty bastards - that looks piss poor quality for a critical part Mad

Looks like yer theory was right Jonny.

Jonny Gav on a mission Twisted Evil

pretty shit that like!!

Posts : 655 Join date : 2010-03-21 Location : Captain slow

iddysti wrote:: peril, you can't beat displacement, that why the GtR is 3.8 litres and also why AndyF went for a 3.0 block, it's all about torque.

I could of gone 2.35 with a 2.2 closed deck and 2.5 crank, like steveBt has, but I think my car produces more torque than his.

Mine is only producing low torque as the power was turned down as I desperately need a swirlpot and a fuel cooler. The car was running 640bhp/610lbs but was wound back till I have the things in place plus th3e figure was on Zens roller which notoriously read low. I have had te 2.5ltr block but think the 2.35 is the better route as less chance of it shitting its self. Plus I think its harder to reach your figure on a 2.5ltr block.

Mine was making about 580lbs on the 2.5ltr but the turbo runs out of puff at around 6k rpm where as with the 2.35 it just seems to keep pulling. Plus don't go down the linered route or they will drop or crack at the power your hoping to get.

stevebt wrote:: Plus don't go down the linered route or they will drop or crack at the power your hoping to get.

Thats why I have gone down the bore strengthing route, with the 16 dowls in the water ways at the top of the block to stop the bores from moving, which seems to be happening with high boost.

What turbo are you running??

Posts : 655 Join date : 2010-03-21 Location : Captain slow

gt35/82 on a .82 housing now but I think the .63 is the far better spooling housing. You do realise pushing for 600bhp your race rom won't do you any favours.

stevebt wrote:: You do realise pushing for 600bhp your race rom won't do you any favours.

Why not, its what bob rawls planning to do with his.

Posts : 655 Join date : 2010-03-21 Location : Captain slow

Its your choice iddy, you go with what you feel will do you best Smile

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stevebt wrote:: Its your choice iddy, you go with what you feel will do you best .

you can only go with what the experts tell you, Bob says it will do the job so thats good for me.

Jonny Gav wrote:: [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

that's an up pipe from a sport!!

__________________________________________________
Citroen ax gt
renault clio 16v
renault clio sport 172
subaru impreza wr1

oh and 3 smart cars [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

PMSL - Peril will be jealous

The quality is really bad and for an important part within the engine, as can be seen from the picture the pipe has just split. Evil or Very Mad

I'd like to know why Racerom wont work with this ?? all done speed density mapped from what I understand

iddysti wrote:: PMSL - Peril will be jealous

The quality is really bad and for an important part within the engine, as can be seen from the picture the pipe has just split.

__________________________________________________
Citroen ax gt
renault clio 16v
renault clio sport 172
subaru impreza wr1

oh and 3 smart cars [You must be registered and logged in to see this image.]

Rob, thats right my car is now running speed density via the Racerom just the same as a simtek, syvec or other aftermarket ECUs do, so I cant understand how racerom wont work.

If your car has an ecutek map on it, I would highly recommend the Racerom the car feels so much better to drive and more responsive. before things went tits up.

iddysti wrote:: Rob, thats right my car is now running speed density via the Racerom just the same as a simtek, syvec or other aftermarket ECUs do, so I cant understand how racerom wont work.

If your car has an ecutek map on it, I would highly recommend the Racerom the car feels so much better to drive and more responsive. before things went tits up.

Yeah its on a ecutek map, It needs to go back anyhow. stupid 32 bit ecu is a pain in the arse, has some safety feature on it which alters the boost according to the environment around the car Pardon my language but its a fookin nightmare, when its cold you'd expect it to go like stink but instead it cuts the boost because it knows denser air is going into the engine so kills the power, but when its hot outside the boost is crazy Laughing

iddy i totally agree with sticking with the 2.5.

a no alot ov people a going on about 2.35 and 2.1 and that shite, cos they rev t 9k apparently Rolling Eyes

so shite if they rev t 9k, will it make them a faster car

IMO

NO.

Here is a picture of the fully nitride crank with carillo rods fitted ready to go into the block.

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ill keep the pictures going whilst your away on holiday yet again Shocked

He's just having a recovery break lol

FINN wrote:: iddy i totally agree with sticking with the 2.5.

a no alot ov people a going on about 2.35 and 2.1 and that shite, cos they rev t 9k apparently

so shite if they rev t 9k, will it make them a faster car

IMO

NO.

its not the 9k rev limit that people do the 2.35 for the internals are under less stress than the 2.5 and they can make them more responsive than a 2.5 (depends on other components ie inj,turbo,etc) just look at Andyf's 9's car which is a 2.4 or the latteral banana 2.35, Zen's is a 2.35 not a lot run 2.5

maxwell 2.35
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gc8 2.35
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How would a 20G perform on a 2.35?

hardy 172 wrote:: How would a 20G perform on a 2.35?

Very well, ask MAXBOOST.

In my opinion the 2.5 is a fantastic fast road engine but doesn't last 5 mins as a race engine at 600+hp due to the physics of the engine design, the cylinder walls are far too thin to handle 600+bhp (that's OVER 150hp per cylinder (from 625cc Shocked

) for any length of time and eventually split.

Strengtheners can be fitted that will most likely hold together in a road engine but given the high pressures and temperatures of a race engine and its a ticking time bomb, not what you need if you want to be competitive.

The 2.35 is the best of both worlds using a 2.2 CDB (closed deck block) and a 2.5 crank, this gives the largest cc engine available with a very strong block that won't split at high pressures.

If the race boys could get a reliable 2.5cc engine at 600+ believe me they would use it!

All IMHO Wink

2.2 CDB-

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2.5 semi CDB-

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Yip agree with ya jonny, but people tend to think the 2.35 route is a bit of a slouch, If they'd done there homework they'll find they anything but

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