air lock, bleeding coolant any tips, special tools required ?

replaced my rad for a big fat alloy one recently and i thought we had bled the coolant system properly as all seemed okay but then...

replaced the uppipe to turbo gasket and turbo oil feed line with a new one at the weekend and obviously had to remove the turbo to do this along with the coolant feed so its all back together now and noticed the temp was just about to climb past normal when so i turned it off and tried the conventional method of squeezing pipes etc

heaters got hot however the bottom of the rad was still freezing, ahhhh what to do ? any ideas ?

Air lock mate. Subaru's have a self bleed system, fill with water when engine is off. When you can't get no more water in, turn heater to hot but not blowing. Start car and keep topping water up if required. Squeeze bottom hose a few times to help get air out. Then wait for air to get out and thermo to open and fans turning on. Helps if you rev car throughout aswel just a bit

this is what i was doing for about an hour earlier except i had my heaters blowing.

1. engine off
2. heaters set to hot but fans not blowing
3. fill to spill with coolant
4. engine on and squeeze bottom rad hose
5. wait for fans and thermostat to kick in

repeat as necessary ?

just out of interest whats the significance of the blowers not being turned on and do you know the nominal temp that the thermostat opens at so i can watch it on my little obd2 computer thing

Its around 90 odd degree's I think. Im unsure why you shouldn put the fans on.

Quick thanks for your advice mate worked a treat no cold spots on the rad anywhere temp is holding perfectly

Information only for anyone else that may be interested the radiators kick in at 96 degrees as does the thermostat and will continue until temp falls to 86 to 88 degrees

No probs bud. Its info off others on here. On my blue wagon it took 3 attempts to get it rite.

What make of radiator is fitted ?

Mushimoto or something along those lines