99/00 uk cutting out problem

got me head busted this one

it starts no problem and will tick over all day

but wen you drive it after 1 mile it just cuts out like the fuel has been cut-off, and then takes about 6-7 atempts before it will start again.

the pump isnt priming

then will just start priming again , am guessing its immoboliser problem

no fault codes are logged and av fitted anutha fuel pump, and pump relay is workin spot on.

av checked wiring too pump and its fine

whats annoying is it will tick over all day

can standard immoboliser be disconnected ?

Surly it wouldn't allow you to even turn it over if the immobiliser kicking in?

thats what i thort.

wen immboliser is on it wont turn over or anything.

thats why me heads done in, cos av tryed everything else.

when a plug ecu plugs into run test mode pump and relay are working as normal

Has it been mapped recently?

Only others things possibly crank sensor, maf sensor although these normally throw fault codes, have you had the turbo off at all?

Sounds like crank sensor

cheers for the advice drew

a was ready too strip wiring harness aswell lol

put a 2nd hand crank sensor in and its now spot on

was more annoyed why it wasnt logging faulty crank sensor in ecu

glad its sorted ya cant get any more grey hair on top

been there before with bevs old wrx

Could you not have scoped it out and watched for the pattern breaking up, should be just a hall effect sensor,

Stick wrote:

Could you not have scoped it out and watched for the pattern breaking up, should be just a hall effect sensor,

ehhhh ????

had no idea it was crank sensor.

it would tick over all day, but drive it, and sometimes it would drive 2 mile other times it would be 10 mile before it would cut out ??

av been working on these car for 7yr now .

and this fault was new too me...

Yeah when it cuts out, try to start but scope out the sensor on a diag so you see the graph it produces, a crank sensor produces a castle top type wave as its a hall effect sensor. If it's breaking up the pattern would obviously be different,

That make sense ?

Yeah that is all well and good if he had known it was the crank sensor in the 1st place, they have 30 other sensors and circuits that could have given him the same problem. lol

You are correct though they are a hall sensor.

What you need to do is put the fault on a Ishikawa diagram and follow that, after a week you will get to the bottom of the problem, I love problem solving by the way

Yeah having a rough idea would have helped i guess, It was suggested though above.

Just my technical brain kicking in and going for the correct method of diagnostics, joys of working in dealers