fuel cut out due to boost?

ok lads the im prezas finished and i knew the turbo was too turned up too high befor. anyway had it out for a good run today around the streets and when it gets around the 10 on the boost gauge its splutter and the fuel is cutting off. now im lead to beleive its the boost controller set too high. which way do i turn it to lower abit to cure it.also how much at a time 1/4 turn?

I presume you mean 1.0 bar rather than 10 psi??, your fuel cut off is set at 0.95 bar on the standard ECU so that would explain why you are getting this problem.

To reduce boost turn the valve anti clock wise, a quarter turn at a time is a good idea, target at getting 0.9 bar of boost (just under fuel cut).

Gauge messured in psi turned it down quarter a turn see how it goes

drew160387 wrote:

Gauge messured in psi turned it down quarter a turn see how it goes

if its happening at 10psi and not 1bar and ya gauge is reading correct its most likely plugs or on ur model the coilpacks are common, could also be maf

Andy

well batery isnt fully charged either and after adjusting it it seems better but still splutters and cuts out when i hit 10psi volt meter is reading 8 and jumps about so me thinks next step is new battery. going to hoy yhte beamers on to see if this helps

looks like new altinator is needed as far as battery is concerned.

me and warwick took the boost controller out and put it back to standard its boosting better than befer but nowhere near where it should be. after being in warwicks mine is piss power lol. basicly when you go to give her some beans she splutters and cuts out for a split second

lost with it now. would be nice if its a easy fix which i dout

As Andy Kindon says, could be the coilpack, maf or it might be blowing the spark out so need a new set of plugs. They are simple fixes.

it wont go past 100 so could it not be turbo. you can hear it spool up but when i get into high rev range with the pedal planted it splutter and the boost gauge goes nuts

fin changed the plugs about 6 month ago so dout theyd be goosed allready.
any advise on a way to test the coilpack or maf to see if its one or other befor splashing out on more parts.

another note what sways me towards turbo is the bmw 323i i have seem to have more pull to it. driving the scooby is just like driving a 320 tbh not much power there at all on the turbo side. gauge boosts but doesnt feel like car is doing much

car runs and sounds spot on below 5k revs to and when not moving sounds healthy throughout the rev range its just when i get to where it should be giving high boost it all goes wrong

Same symptoms that Caz had on the RB5 and Andy found it to be the coilpack. If it was the turbo then your gauge wouldnt be reading like it does and the car not responding. It'll be either a fueling or ignition problem but my money would be on ignition and solutions already advised.

Drew,
If you are going to see Dave for an alternator why not ask him to have a quick look at it.

If it was MAF the car would cut out and not restart & run without disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.

As Andy say's get the coilpacks checked out first, Dave will have some if you need them or he may let you swap them around to test before you buy, most lad's on here are good for that - saves you wasting money.

You may also want to check that your turbo's wastegate is not stuck open or jamming as that will also gave similar symptoms as lack of power and boost gauge going nuts.

Best of luck with getting it sorted.

You have got the speedo connected haven't you?

The speedo reads lol yeah ill see dave sounds a plan as coils be cheaper than turbo lol i thought coils but in past wen dud it wouldnt run on all cylinders sure dave be able to srt it .cheers for heads up lads

Just asked about the speedo as you get a cut when going on boost with the speedo disconnected.

Try taking the coil packs out and remove the rubber boot over the end of them, if the plastic end underneath is broken or cracked that will be your problem, you can repair them by super gluing the broken bits back on to prevent the spark energy escaping out of the side of the coil but most of the time the heat damages them beyond repair.

What happens is the coil goes weak over time, so it works fine when the engine isn't under load, add some boost and the in cylinder pressures rise, the coil suddenly can't produce enough energy for the spark to jump the gap in the plug causing it to miseries.

Hope this helps.

well jonny you hit the nail on the head with that description
it pulls but not like warwicks up until around just under 10psi on my gauge then start to pop and splutter and the gauge goes abit dolally. worked it out from psi to bar and its showing the 0.9 bar just without the actual power.

is it safe to say i can rule out the turbo being a dud i have no smoke at all its just the serious lack of power. i recon a vtr would have it at the min. only way i can put it into term is by using warwick as example again as only been in his to compare

his has twice if not 3 times as much pull than mine. hope its just the coil pack. btw where is it on these and ill take a look tommorrow morining

u have a coil pack for every plug on your car, am sure when i changed the plugs a noticed at least 2 iffy coil packs, a told the lad who had the car before u, about them and he started searching for new ones, but he never got back intouch to say wether he got new ones or not

So my coils would be the explanation lol u about this morning finn ill pop up if you dnt mind takin a quick lok

Ok got aktinator on had dodgy earth to . I now gave boost but still a tad spluttery goin to change coil packs today as fin advised there iffy .eclipse is sortin me out so all is well cheers again lads

so after alot of fuking about at finns today got the floppy gearstick sorted wahey its mint now bud spring must have done trick

got 4 working coil packs off finn and changed them when i got back which unfortunatly made noooo difference at all. im still unable to put my foot down. if i try the boost gauge gets to around 0.7-0.8 and then it starts spluttering if i back off a tad it goes normal. so basicly i can run the car up until just under 10 psi so from top of head around 0.6?

any ideas now. is it worth fuking about changing plugs they were done around 6 month or a bit longer by finn iirc

Wouldn't bother changing the plugs mate, they will be fine, next thing to try now you have eliminated the coil packs as the route cause is the MAF sensor.

Have you done an ECU read to see if there are any fault codes stored?

not yet but thats worth doing. best place would be drew for that am i right as im sure i noticed a computer at his place last time i was there.

might be a daft question but would a dodgy maf stop it running fine alltogether or cut out until its unplugged.

air filters abit shit tbh could that be a cause as ide rather change the air and fuel befor splashing out on diognosis checks

The diagnostics isn't hard to do mate, you can do it yourself.

Look here- http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/Knowledge/ReadingECUCodes#toc3

When my maf went it stopped the car running altogether until it was unplugged, but mine was completely fecked.

It the maf is giving a half sensible reading the car may well still run but if it's not giving the right airflow readings then it would cause poor running

cheers for that ill have a play tomorrow see if theres any stores and reset ecu. the accident may have it running stupid lol

when doing this the fans work but the engine light does not flash its constantly on

ok managed to get it flashing. you just conect the black read plugs.
im getting code 23 over and over which is the mass air flow circuit so im assumin g it means mass air flow meter.

if anyone has one lying about i could try befor splashing out on another one and wasting more money in it lol so far ive spent £160 chasing the problem about and im no thurther forward