Engine rebuild costs...

Changed my woodruff key today and spent nearly an hour and a half getting the timing belt all lined up - eventually got it on then was time to test :-S
....now i rotated the crank through two full revolutions of the BELT and all was well, was quite stiff then would slacken off then stiffen up again ETC ETC (assuming the lobes on the cams yeah?) so then came the test..... primed the pump and sat there for 5 minutes absolutely shatting my kegs....double/triple checking that all the timing markers were lined up and they were - turned it over and an almighty BANG blew out the exhaust NOT the engine side.............. but this was enough to scare the shat out of me and ring Gipa with my tail between my legs lol

so best case....i'm a legend, done it right and it was just excess fuel

worst case.... i'm a twat and haven't timed it right. :>:S:

Now the car DIDN'T turn over IE run, literally made this bang out the exhaust and i killed the key.

How much would i be looking at best and worst scenario for a rebuild?? also name companies in the NE that could do this?? (assuming it would just be the heads would need building?)

Got to wait until the GNR has finished tomorrow to have Gipa have a spy and start it for real

Andy Kindon is prob ya best bet fella.

Honestly depends on whats up with it mate. Could sit and list everything you'd need to build an engine from scratch as you dont know the problem but then it would depend on spec you wanted etc. Hopefully it'll just be something daft.

you will not have damaged the bottom end of the engine (the expensive bit) at worst you will have bent a couple of valves in the head if the cam timing was out.
the best case is you have timed it wrong but you have had no piston & valve contact.

a big pop out of the exhaust sounds to me like that is the case as the ignition will be going off at the incorrect time and igniting the fuel when the exhaust valve is open firing it down the exhaust.

My advice would be, let someone that knows what they are doing do it in future

it will be a lot cheaper in the long run matey!

Jonny Gav wrote:

My advice would be, let someone that knows what they are doing do it in future
it will be a lot cheaper in the long run matey!

Ahmen to that

Was trying to save money with being made redundant and not starting new job until Oct 31st :-( hope it's not fooked, although you have stopped me filling me kegs every 2 minutes lol

OK - i've taken the belt off again but pulleys haven't been moved...
When i reference these pullies, its asif your stood infront of the car looking at the engine....
Hard to get a picture of the marks on this top-left...looks a TINY bit off

Crank - hard to get a head on picture because i have a DSLR and with the lens it's deep and doesn't fit between the crank & rad

top-right

bottom right

yad be looking at anywhere from £550 to £800 depending on how many valves you have bent, its quite time consuming replacing the valves due to solid lifters, V4 sti uses shim under bucket lifters and these have to be correctly measured to a hundredth of a mm, then machined exact in order to get the right valve clearance, theres alot more to it than simply fitting new valve


Andy

Cheers for the info Andy - thankfully i gave it another shot this morning and its running fine - still going to pay a pro to change the new belt though...just to be safe....lesson one learnt.
My arse is still putting like a dogs though lol

The cam pulley will move when the belts taken off anyway due to compression. Hope its all okay bud.

Yellowperil wrote:

The cam pulley will move when the belts taken off anyway due to compression. Hope its all okay bud.

an engine doesnt hold its compression when not running cumon fella

So all the cams line up and match up their timing marks unaided or supported when the belt is off? im talking compression not combustion

yellowperil its not compression what causes the tension on the cam pulleys

try google before answering tech questions mate

Ah fookin know its the springs, just winding

Cams would still move though

its not the springs either yello pleb


its cos the valve buckets are sitting just on the rock of the cam lobes on the nearside only

drew wrote:

its cos the valve buckets are sitting just on the rock of the cam lobes on the nearside only

near the peak of the cam lobe on the yellow beast . its the case on mine and various other cars ive changed timing belts on anyways so apologies for assuming it would be the same

compression lol, would be fun changing plugs

drew wrote:

its not the springs either yello pleb

FPMSL, I nearly fell of me chair laughing at that

Yellowperil wrote:

Okay well it is the case on mine and various other cars ive changed timing belts on so apologies for assuming it would be the same

you keep forgetting peril, you own a NON TURBO..

you have 2 less cams...

you have no boost ????

well you tryed boost?? with spectacular outcome


but as normal you didnt listen too us lot???

cos we nar nowt dont we

but must agree your googling powers have been helpful in the past

Theory valves should be open equally on mine when timed as a turbo though surely? Just duration being different when running

Jeez! I have one blonde moment as you all jump on the band wagon! Will always admit im still learning

Oh and btw, Jonny you can fookin pedal to the meet tomorrow now!

FINN wrote:

you keep forgetting peril, you own a NON TURBO..

you have 2 less cams...

dont be taking the piss out of me having 2 less cams. atleast im relatively safe if me timing belt snaps

Yellowperil wrote:

Jeez! I have ONE blonde moment as you all jump on the band wagon! Will always admit im still learning

Oh and btw, Jonny you can fookin pedal to the meet tomorrow now!

just spat me coffee all over the laptop pmsl